Like anyone who works in advertising, make-up artist Lilly Nouilati is all too familiar with the mixture of trepidation and anxiety that comes with flicking through the pages of a magazine still hot off the press.
The Dubai-based freelancer has picture-perfected the faces of some of the United Arab Emirates’ biggest stars – including billboard favourite Andreea Zoia – and recalls a moment tentatively sitting behind a customer in a supermarket waiting for that one single turn of a page.
“I knew my model was in it,” she laughs. “And so I’m just anxiously sitting behind her waiting for her to flick to the page where I did the model’s make-up.”
“Not to boost myself up, but I feel that the people who are maintaining the outer appearance of the models, actresses and actors are really important,” she adds. “Maybe they can do their own make-up but, when they’re on set from 4am and have to memorise lines, there’s no time [for them] to think about [their] outer appearance. If the stylist and hair are taking care of that, it all comes together peacefully and it’s less stressful. I’ve heard people say make-up artists are overrated. But if it was not for the people working on the outer appearance these models and actresses would fall apart.”
Having relocated from the United States to Dubai just over two years ago, Bobbi Brown-trained Nouilati has made a name for herself working on sets for big names such as Dolce & Gabbana, Chanel and Banana Republic. Her models have appeared in You & I magazine and Arabic women’s title Kul Al’Usra. Alongside this, she has worked on television commercials, fashion events and weddings. Each brings with it a different mood, but the overall goal is always the same – to make the models as beautiful as possible.
In Dubai, it is not unusual for a crew to begin setting up as early as 4am in order to capture the best outdoor shots before the sun’s light becomes too bright and the heat too unbearable. Nouilati is usually there from the very beginning. She, along with the hair dresser and stylist will remain on set throughout the day ready to mop and blot whenever called. “Tissues and powder are a must in Dubai,” she says. “I’ve had to re-train myself here based on the environment and re-learn how to handle the humidity and what products to use based on that.”
Photo shoots often take place outdoors, especially at hotels, where there is bigger potential for marketing and advertising. This means the need to have someone on hand to maintain the model’s appearance is all the more important. Different platforms also bring with them different levels of expectation. Photo shoots present the best opportunities to be creative, while TV commercials require a make-up artist to project the director’s vision as close as possible. “On a commercial shoot, you’re mainly going to find people wanting natural make-up because it’s supposed to be a live representation of every day,” she explains. “With photo shoots, you can be as artistic as possible and there’s a lot more time to work. There’s a lot more understanding, whereas on a commercial shoot there are a lot more people involved, so you really have to be on your toes and listening. You have to please more than one person.”
How much input does the make-up artist have in terms of an ad’s overall look?
“On commercial shoots, it’s more the director’s opinion and you’ve just got to keep your mouth shut,” she replies. “Depending on your relationship with that director, you can take them aside and suggest this or that, but on commercial shoots I usually just go and do what I’m told. On photo sets, it’s more of a collaboration and I can advise more which make-up would look better on the model’s face or what’s more in trend at that time. Then they can have the final say on whether I can complete that or not.”
In contrast to the US, directors in the UAE do not mince their words when they see something they do not like. “Here, it’s not so politically correct,” says Nouilati. “People will tell you ‘we want this person to look this way’ or ‘we don’t like her nose, fix it’. It’s a lot of pressure. In New York they would just say ‘we need a soft, smoky Lilly’, whereas here they would say ‘make her nose smaller’ or ‘her cheekbones sharper.’ They’re very concerned about the outer appearance.”
Do make-up artists get the recognition they deserve?
“Oh no, no, no. As I said before, I think a lot of people think make-up artists are overrated. And to be honest, I felt they were before I took my make-up art to the next level professionally. I never saw myself in the beauty industry, but the people who are also in my shoes – the other artists like me – are the ones who really understand how much pressure can be put on the hair stylist or make-up artist.
“It’s what people see first – your outer appearance. Before someone starts talking on camera or before you figure out who that person is in the photo, you are looking solely at the outer appearance. So it’s very important that they look appealing and that they look good.”
